My favorite places to eat in Córdoba.
The beauty of Córdoba, to me, is its traditional taverns. They can be loud, they can be messy, and they are everything I want in a long Spanish lunch. But in case that's not your thing, I've included my top picks for modern eateries in Córdoba, too.
When I lived in Córdoba in 2010, I was enamored by all of the city's Spanish restaurants and taverns. But after a while, I started craving the flavors I'd grown up with—Mexican, Thai, even a good burger would do the trick.
But there just wasn't a market for non-Spanish food then, and there still really isn't. Things have changed since 2010, and while there are certainly more cuisines on offer today, it's not what Córdoba does best.
And though I didn't see it at the time, that's the beauty of Córdoba. It's a city that remains fiercely Spanish— stuck, for better or worse, in its traditional ways—in an ever more globalized world.
So today I'm talking my favorite places to eat in Córdoba. And while you won't find any Mexican or Thai restaurants on my list, I promise you'll find some of the best Spanish food in the country.
When it comes to eating Spanish food in Córdoba, you've got two groups—traditional taverns and modern restaurants.
Traditional taverns in Córdoba
In Córdoba, you've got your ultra traditional, often no-frills establishments, that serve simple Andalusian fare. These are the places where I first realized I was starting to fall for Spain. The places where friends and neighbors meet, standing at the bar (often a little too close for comfort, for my American sensibilities!), sharing nibbles and drinking an ice cold tiny beer. These traditional taverns will always be my favorites.
Taberna Salinas: I lived around the corner from this traditional restaurant for a year, and it was always my favorite place to bring visitors. This is THE place in Córdoba to try the city's signature dishes like bull tail's stew, salmorejo and flamenquín.
Pepe de la Judería: Traditional food in a bit more of an elegant setting, this restaurant is located in the heart of Córdoba's Jewish quarter. If you go, be sure to try their fried eggplant drizzled with molasses.
Casa Antonio: This might be Córdoba's best-kept secret. Tucked away from the center and located in a residential area, this is where Pablo and I go for our fried fish (choco—cuttlefish—always) fix. Their salmorejo is fantastic, and if you're feeling adventurous, try Pablo's favorite dish—volcán de gulas.
Taberna el Pisto: Smack dab in the city center, this bustling tapas bar is the perfect place to picotear on all things Spanish tapas. They're known for their pisto (ratatouille), but I can vouch for just about everything else on the menu.
Taberna Góngora: Near and dear to my heart, this is where Pablo took me on our first date. You can expect grumpy waiters along with bull heads and bullfighter paraphernalia decorating the walls at this traditional Cordobés tavern. Their menu features a wide array of wild game (get the venison!), and they have the best flamenquín in Córdoba.
Bodegas Guzmán: Just about as no-frills as you can get, this bodega couldn't be more authentic. Grab a spot at the bar, let the bartender tell you which wine to try, and share a few tapas among friends.
Spanish with a twist
And on the other end of the spectrum, you've got Spanish with a twist—Córdoba's more modern restaurants. I'm not talking anything too crazy, but these restaurants take key Spanish ingredients and flavors and elevate them in a way the traditional taverns just aren't interested in.
Cuatromanos: I love this restaurant. They take everything I adore about Spanish food (simple, great quality ingredients) and put something surprising on the plate. Their presa ibérica (a delicoius melt-in-your-mouth cut of pork) marinated in miso, as well as the grilled octopus with wasabi mashed potatoes are two perfect examples.
La Sastrería: Trendy food done right. I love their salmorejo isn't served with the traditional boiled egg and jamón combo, and that they've got a bull's tail stew taco with pickled pineapple, red onion and cilantro.
Regadera: This restaurant came onto the Córdoba dining scene when I still lived there, and it's remained a staple in the city. Their menu changes often, which is a sign you're in good hands. Apart from the delicious food, it's got the perfect location right along the river. Finish your afternoon lunch with a beautiful walk across nearby Roman bridge.
La Tortuga: Located just off Plaza de las Tendillas, this was my go-to breakfast place when I lived in Córdoba. Apart from serving a delicious tomato toast in the morning, La Tortuga is a cozy place to grab a quick, healthy lunch or light dinner.
Here's to delicious food in Córdoba, crowded taverns, rambunctious conversations and those moments when you're traveling where you really start to fall for a place. If you try any of these places (or any that aren't on the list), I'd love to hear about them in the comments.